Decals are one thing that don't seem to like to co-operate with me and have been downright frustrating in the past. The idea of having to glosscoat, apply decals, dullcoat all my helo models doesn't sound too inviting all for the sake of adding a few decals.

Does anyone have any tips or experiences they care to share working with decals? Maybe some tricks, tips, etc that may make life easier for us decally inept modellers?

-B6

Use them when they are fresh. Old decals are the nightmare itself. You may be able to get away from a gloss coat if you use something like the Solvaset stuff, the two-part stuff that you brush on before placing the decal, then let dry after the decal goes on, followed by a final touch of another solvent that makes the clear part seem to disappear. I bought the pair at a model railroad hobby shop, but most hobby shops that have painting stuff will have them. Can't remember the name of the second bottle. One has blue text on it, the other has red. I've had really good results with those. Take your time, use warm water when dipping the decals in the first place. One thing I learned that works with most brands is to soak the decal for 10-20 seconds, then place it face up on a tissue or sheet of newspaper. The decal will roll up a bit when it first gets wet, but when it unrolls, it is ready to apply to the model. So, basically if you are using these procedures, place the dry decal (cut as close to the image as you can), in the warm water, then brush the first step solvent on the area to be decalled. By the time you have brushed that stuff on, the decal should have soaked and unrolled enough to slip off the paper. With water or the first solvent standing by, place the decal with a wet paint brush, and after getting it seated, press with a tissue to get the bubbles out and dry it as much as possible. If it moves while blotting, dampen again with the first step solvent again and move it back to the right spot. When it has dried, apply the second step of the solvent. After that second step, dont touch it - just let it dry. That second step can melt the decal film, and blotting it may actually remove the paint or ink of the decal itself. A final overspray with a flat clear will usually finish off any lingering decal film. I have been using these steps for my WW1 model aircraft for those table-top games like Canvas Eagles and Blue Max, and have not had any real problems with decals rubbing off or tearing. The only thing I have never been able to really fix was the flashes on the rudders, where you are dealing with detailed surface that curves in several directions at once. I ended up painting on the tri-color tail flash on most of my allied WW1 aircraft.

Some decals, like the GHQ and those from I-94 for 10mm and smaller scales, are all one large sheet, and you need to cut close to the colored surface or may end up with more than one decal.

If you must use really old decals that are already cracking a bit before you soak them, I'm told you can use the solvaset first bottle from above and more or less glue the decal back together. Then try soaking in water and see if you can get it off in one (or only a few smaller) piece(s). I have a few old MPC and Revell airplane models, and the 25-30 year old decals are in pieces when I get them, so I go shopping for 3d party manufactured decals.

Hope that helps. See, if you joined Darby with those 1/600 models, you could paint a small flash of color in there and say whatever you want about what it says, because most people would just have to take your word for it.

Ox

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Tom Oxley
SFC, USA (RET)
OD Green Old Fart

I use decalfix from humbrol..
brush on a layer on the helo,
add decal let dry,
add another layer of decalfix..
done

works for me

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If you buy Micro Sol and Micro Set fixers, then decals will never cause you trouble again.

They "melt" the decals and make them conform to the surface, making it possible to put decals on rounded objects and so on. The film that the decals is on will not be visible afterwards.

Another thing - always start out with a coat of clear varnish before you put on a decal. A clear surface is much more smooth than a matt, which is actually bumpy (thus the breaking of light and matt appearance).

If you put a decal on a matt surface the risk of airpockets underneath is greater - and that's gonna look ugly. Thus the clear/gloss varnish.

You guys rock! Thanks so much for the feedback.

Thomas, I agree with you. Tiny heeelos in the Airrrr would be a surefire way to get away from that! LOL!

-B6

Yes, micro-sol, micro-set. Think there used to be another brand or something called Solvaset, but the micro-stuff is what I have. The clear gloss/clear flat is the best way to go, unless your are working with clear parts. Mask any clear parts well before spraying any clear coat. The clear parts may fog. I have a really nice MiG-23 that I oversprayed, and it will always look like the aircraft is sitting on the tarmac in the morning dew, not a bad look, but not what I was going for.

Ox

_________________
Tom Oxley
SFC, USA (RET)
OD Green Old Fart

Actually, I DO decal my 1/600 planes! Not the helos though, as the "subdued" markings just wouldn't show. Heh heh. But they planes, ya, all my F-4s, A-4s, F-8s, A-1s, Mig 17-19-21 have appropriate wing and fuselage markings. Some even have tail codes! (Doms Decals puts them out, just awesome). The hardest I have found to do is my 1/600 Me-109s, just really small!

But, back to larger scales....

for my 1/72 helos and tanks, I first put a spot of FUTURE acrylic (keeps the decal from "silvering"), then soak the decal after the acrylic dries. Using tweezers, paint brush (water dipped) and maybe a peice of wet plastic, place the decal carefully. Now, due to the acrylic, you can move the decal around as long as it is wet/moist. Once ssited, let it dry a bit, then hit it with the Microset. When that dries I put another light coat of acrylic to keep it from getting scratched, then spray the whole sebang with the dullcoat. It sounds like a lot of work, but they end up looking great, especially since you can weather then after the topcoat of acrylic without worrying about them falling appart or being stained.

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